Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
